Tunisian Family / Cultural Stay

As a segment of our language program, we are required to stay with a Tunisian family for a weekend. The purpose of the home-stay is to learn more about Tunisian culture and practice our newly learned Arabic language. Last weekend I met my Tunisian family and enjoyed a lovely home-stay in their wonderful home. My host family lives 2 1/2 hours south of Tunis in a town much smaller than Tunis. My host sister, Sahar, just completed her Master’s degree in English and speaks English very well. Sahar lives with her two sisters (22 and 18 years old), one brother (14 years old), and mother and father. The Tunisian education system has begun to teach English in the public school system, so Sahar’s two sisters speak a little English, and her brother spoke English quite well. Sahar had no idea that her brother could speak English so well and was very impressed with all that he knew. My host mother and father did not speak English, so I was unable to communicate with them very well. I also had the opportunity to meet some of Sahar's grandparents, aunts, and cousins. Everyone extended a warm welcome and their hospitality was much appreciated! It was so wonderful to be part of a family, again. Below is a picture of (from right to left) one of Sahar's sisters, Sahar, me, and Sahar's brother.

Sahr's grandfather owns a small plot of land on which he farms and on this property is a traditional Tah-boon-ah (see above picture). The tah-boon-ah is used for cooking traditional bread, as well as other foods. A fire is built at the bottom of the tah-boon-ah which then heats up the sides. There is some type of ceramic coating on the sides that gets very hot. After the dough is mixed, kneaded, and formed, it is put on the sides of the tah-boon-ah to bake. After removing it from the tah-boon-ah, we dipped it (more like soaked it) in olive oil. The bread was warm and sooooo DELICIOUS!




Sahar's family also prepared some sardines in garlic and olive oil. The sardines were then put on a wire rack and cooked in the tah-boon-ah. We also cooked some peppers and onions in the tah-boon-ah that were made into harrissa (a traditional spread put on bread). All of the food was ready about 8:45 pm. Sahar, her sister, mother, father, aunt, cousins, grandmother, and grandfather all sat on a mat near the field and enjoyed the delicious food as the sun was setting around us. My soul was radiating with happiness. Surely, I must have been glowing outwardly! Above is a picture of Sahar's grandfather in the field. He truly is a motivation for me to learn the Arabic language. I want so much to be able to talk with him and learn of his life stories.

I would like to write more, but the internet cafe is about to close . I hope to post more this week. May you be filled with God's peace that passes all understanding this week. I love you all and miss you.

I apologize for the lengthy delay in posting a new message. I was lucky today and was able to upload some pictures for you! As the ol’ adage goes, “A picture is worth more than a thousand words.”

Bounties

I was quite surprised to discover that Tunis has a food store fairly comparable to a grocery store in America. While the food on the shelves differs somewhat from that found in the States, the concept is quite similar. Supposedly the grocery store offers the best prices in town, but I have, instead, chosen to purchase my fruits, vegetables, cheeses, bread, etc from the Central Market. The market is enclosed - imagine the size of maybe the Kingston Armory. Along the perimeter are stands selling meat, cheese, milk, yogurt, spices, grains, homemade bread, etc. In the center of the market are stands selling fruits and vegetables. Many Tunisians purchase their food in the market, so it is quite the bustling place. Despite the immense amount of foot traffic through the market, the market is surprisingly very clean. All of the meats are sold in one area, so the pungent, and some may say nauseating, smell of raw meat is contained to one area. The floor is continually being swept and the stands are well organized.

I enjoy so much going to the market. Near the beginning of my time here, I would always go to the market with someone who could speak French. Recently, however, I have ventured to the market by myself. As I mentioned before, I speak little French and even less Arabic, so getting the foods I want, in the amount I want, and negotiating the price is a fun challenge Most vendors appreciate the effort I make to speak the little Arabic that I know, mixed with some French, and the slightest of English. Because I frequent the same vendors, I have begun to develop a relationship with them and they offer me the warmest greeting each time I visit. They are truly witnesses of my progress in learning the Arabic language as I often try out the new words I learn in class. I purchased a handmade basket from a woman at the market which I use to carry my food. Tunisians use this same type of basket for carrying their goods, so it is my way of attempting to “fit in” and shed my image as a tourist as much as possible.

Tunisian Cusine

On a similar note, as a cultural experience requirement for my program, all participants were assigned to one of four “cultural experience” groups. The groups include Tunisian cooking, calligraphy, Tunisian music, and Tunisian theatre. Luckily, I was assigned to the cooking group! Each Wednesday evening my group meets with a Tunisian woman to learn various Tunisian dishes and delicacies. Last week we made brik. Brik is a traditional Tunisian dish similar in popularity as pizza in American. Brik is made with mashed potatoes, parsley, cheese, capers, tuna, and an egg enclosed in an envelope of fried dough. A thin layer of dough is first folded into a square. The mashed potatoes, parsley, cheese, capers, and tuna are mixed together and then placed in the middle of the square of dough. An egg is cracked open, only the yolk is used, and then placed on top of the other mixture. The dough is then folded in half (now you have a triangle) and the brik is quickly placed into hot oil. The edges are pressed together and sealed. Everything inside the dough pocket is cooked from the outside in. Tunisians often cook brik so that the egg remains runny and the challenge is to bite into the brik without having the egg run all over you. The briks were delicious! I am looking forward to the other dishes we will learn how to make.

As a side note, Tunisians put tuna on just about EVERYTHING: Tuna and eggs, tuna sandwiches, tuna on pasta, tuna on pizza, tuna in calzones, tuna on salads, etc. Fortunately, I enjoy tuna! Some of my colleagues are not as fortunate! Also, Tunisians use a spicy, red paste called harrisa on almost everything. Whatever tuna can be put on, harrisa is also put on. Harrisa is also served as a spread with bread at restaurants. Before coming to Tunisia, I was aware that I liked spicy foods, but I never knew the tolerance I had for spicy foods. Many of my colleagues are unable to handle the heat from the harissa, but I don’t seem to be affected by it. In fact, when we have gone out to eat, I have often dipped my bread into the harrisa and said, “Oh, this harrisa is not hot,” however, when my colleagues try it, their mouths are on fire!

El Jem & Monastir

This past weekend our group visited El Jem and the city of Monastir. El Jem hosts the remains of an extraordinary Roman amphitheatre constructed in the second century AD. The remains of the amphitheatre are among the best preserved of their kind, even said to be finer than the Colosseum in Rome. The amphitheatre’s original capacity was estimated at around 30,000! The amphitheatre was used for gruesome theatrical performances whereby animals fought animals, gladiators (often slaves and/or convicts) fought animals, and / or gladiators fought other gladiators - often ‘til death.

It truly was an amazing experience to stand in the center of the amphitheatre! The complex is enormous in size and surprisingly well preserved. Under the amphitheatre are hallways and holding chambers where the gladiators and animals were held. We were told that the animals were hoisted up through an opening in the amphitheatre floor. It was fairly dark in the hallways and holding chambers, just light enough to barely see, and the air was heavy and stale. I definitely had chills running through my body as I walked around in this area. It was certainly eerie!

After lunch, our group piled back into the bus and, after a few other stops, settled in at an awesome beach resort in the town of Monastir. We were definitely spoiled! The rooms were beautiful and we had access to an indoor pool, outdoor pool, and beach. My roommate and I were blessed with a room that faced the ocean, complete with our own balcony. All of our meals were included, so we had a day to relax! Our language program is so intensive during the week that the day of rest was much needed and appreciated!

On our way back to Tunis on Sunday, we made a quick stop at Hammamet, probably the most touristy area in Tunisia. We were given an hour to explore the area, not very much time, but a few of us made our way through the market. The following is an experience I wrote about in my journal:

Few words were exchanged, and there was no need for many to be spoken. A merchant eagerly ushered me into his shop of rugs and sat me down beside an older woman sitting in front of a loom. She smiled at me. “Assalama,” I greeted the woman. “Assalama,” she responded, seemingly somewhat appreciative of the greeting in her language. The woman picked up a strand of yarn and wove it through a few strands on the loom. She tied a knot and trimmed the tails of the yarn. Again she repeated the motion. The woman then put a strand of yarn in my hand and held my hand as she gently guided me through the motions. Following a few guided trials, she let go of my hand and set me free to repeat on my own. The woman then cut a piece of yarn, and saying something I could not understand, she tied the strand of yarn around my wrist. Her voice was gentle, the skin on her face looked soft, her eyes were warm, welcoming, and respectful. Only a few moments had passed since first meeting this woman and, yet, in some way, I felt our souls connect. The merchant returned and as quickly as the experience began, it came to an end. The merchant encouraged me to buy a rug, I politely expressed I was not interested at the moment, and out of the door I left. I wanted nothing more than to linger in the moment, to sit side by side with the woman at the loom.

How Great is Our God!

How great is our God! While we often identify occurrences in life as "coincidences," I believe there is far greater purpose and intention to these "coincidences." The school in which I am studying Arabic is an international research center for researchers around the world interested in studying the Maghreb region, in which Tunisia is located. Rebecca met an American woman at the center on Thursday who is teaching English in Tunisia. We "coincidently" bumped into this woman at dinner Friday evening and we sat and visited with her. (Her name is Jordan). Jordan mentioned in passing that she is a Christian, so I asked her if she had found any Christian churches in Tunis, the capital of Tunisia, where we are living. Jordan said that she had just heard of a Angelican church with services in English. We attended this morning, and, boy, was it wonderful!

The predominant population in Tunisia is Arab, and the predominant religion is Muslim (98%). The church we attended was predominantly people from the Sub Saharan region of Africa, as well as Asians, Canadians, Americans, etc. Worship was powerful and the Spirit of the Lord was evident in the church. Being that we are in a Muslim country, I certainly did not expect to find a church, much less a church so free in worship! The people of the church were so warm in their welcome. It reminded me of the warmness of the Ghanaian people when I was in Ghana last year. I am filled with God's spirit and refreshed for the upcoming week. Hopefully we can get involved in some of their ministries as a way to learn more about Tunisian culture, as well as be with brothers and sisters in Christ.

Jordan is renting a room in a convent near our hotel and invited us to use a room in the convent to study. We have been studying in our hotel rooms, which gets quite boring. The room in the convent is spacious and has free access to the internet. What a blessing!!! Jordan is also helping me with my Arabic, which is, of course, another blessing. God is so good!! Who am I that He should be so mindful of me?!

I have taken pictures that I would like to share with you, but, unfortunately, am unable to upload them to the blog. I hope to figure out a way around this soon. Until then, may you be filled with God's abounding peace and joy this week. I love you, all.

Challenges

Learning Arabic is quite possibly one of the hardest things I have ever attempted. The Arabic language has a completely different set of letters and sounds than the English language. I am learning how to write new letters and my mouth and throat are learning new ways to stretch, move, and constrict. Also, Arabic reads and writes from right to left, opposite of many languages. I now have sympathy for all of you left-handed people out there! My teachers are great and have much experience in teaching Arabic to native English speakers. I have two hours of class in the morning, a half an hour break, and then another two hours of class before lunch. We then have homework to do and two hours of tutoring in the evening. I have completed four days of classes thus far and am amazed at how much I have learned! Aside from class, we are immersed in the language daily as Tunisians speak primarily Arabic and French. The staff at our hotel, as well as store clerks, sellers at the market, and others we come into contact with, get quite a laugh as we try to communicate with them. While they laugh, everyone I have come into contact with thus far has been very helpful in correcting me and teaching me new words. I have definitely learned to rely on body language as a form of communication. I laugh often as communication often resembles a game of charades.

Last weekend Rebecca and I took the train to Sidi Bou Said, a city northeast of Tunis. The city is built on a mountain / hill that overlooks the Mediterranean Sea. All of the buildings are white, most with big, beautiful, blue doors. As I understand it, the village was discovered by wealthy Frenchmen in the early 1900s. The French bought many of the houses and went to great lengths to preserve the town’s character. As a result, there is very little that is not Tunisian in origin. The view of the Mediterranean Sea was amazing! I have never seen water of such a vibrant blue color. There was a slight breeze blowing in off the water and all was well with the world. Rebecca and I enjoyed the view from an outdoor café at the top of the mountain / hill. The picture posted with my first entry was taken from a roof top at Sidi Bou Said.

Tunisia is considered a liberal Muslim country, so women here experience more rights than in most Muslim countries. As liberal as Tunisia may be for a Muslim country, coming from America, I feel rather restricted as a woman. We women on the trip have been advised not to travel alone. It is customary for men to gwak at women and it is not uncommon to hear cat-calls when walking by a group of men, and might I add, men waaaaaay outnumber women on the streets. We were told to avoid eye-contact with men as eye-contact is considered an invitation. It is helpful to wear sunglasses while on the street and in the market. We were also advised not to sit in a café alone as this is also seen as an invitation to men. There are a number of cafes that only serve men, so sometimes it is a challenge to find a place to eat.

In America, I enjoy greeting and meeting new people, so it has been very difficult to be so reserved. I feel distant from the people I walk by on the street and wonder how I will ever get to know the culture without having the opportunity to speak to the people. Even if it was appropriate for me to greet people whom I pass, an inability to communicate with words is also an obstacle in which to contend. However, smiles have the ability to speak much louder than words!

Yesterday our group met with the American ambassador to Tunisia, Robert F. Godec. While he had quite a colorful portfolio of international relations experience, I must admit that I was most impressed with the fact that he has competed in several ultra-marathons and even an Ironman competition!

While the past couple of days have been challenging, and might I add mighty frustrating, with school work, today, I feel like the clouds are starting to part. Classes went smoother today and I am gaining my bearings in the city. This weekend we are free to travel as we would like, so I will report back on my journeys.

Hello from Tunisia

Greetings to you my family and friends. We have finally arrived in Tunisia! The journey to Tunisia seemed as though it would never end. Our group left Dulles National Airport at 5:40 pm on Thursday evening, arrived in Frankfurt, Germany at 7:00 am Friday morning. We were scheduled to have a 16 hour lay-over in Frankfurt, but the lay-over was extended due to inclement weather. We arrived in Tunis, Tunisia at 3:00 am Saturday morning. Many hours with little sleep, however, we were all in good spirits upon finally arriving.

Upon awaking Saturday late morning, a friend, Rebecca, and I ate lunch together at a restaurant and set out in search of the market. The primary language spoken in Tunisia is both French and Arabic, neither of which I speak with any proficiency. Fortunately, Rebecca chose a practical field of study for her undergraduate degree - French and Spanish. She studied a semester in both France and Chile and spent two years in Niger (Knee-jair), a French-speaking country, as a Peace Corps volunteer. I would certainly have been reluctant to explore the city as we did without speaking the French language.

While I would like to share more with you about my experience thus far, the internet cafe will be closing any minute. My intention is to write often so that you can share this amazing experience with me. Please feel free to post a message!