I apologize for the lengthy delay in posting a new message. I was lucky today and was able to upload some pictures for you! As the ol’ adage goes, “A picture is worth more than a thousand words.”

Bounties

I was quite surprised to discover that Tunis has a food store fairly comparable to a grocery store in America. While the food on the shelves differs somewhat from that found in the States, the concept is quite similar. Supposedly the grocery store offers the best prices in town, but I have, instead, chosen to purchase my fruits, vegetables, cheeses, bread, etc from the Central Market. The market is enclosed - imagine the size of maybe the Kingston Armory. Along the perimeter are stands selling meat, cheese, milk, yogurt, spices, grains, homemade bread, etc. In the center of the market are stands selling fruits and vegetables. Many Tunisians purchase their food in the market, so it is quite the bustling place. Despite the immense amount of foot traffic through the market, the market is surprisingly very clean. All of the meats are sold in one area, so the pungent, and some may say nauseating, smell of raw meat is contained to one area. The floor is continually being swept and the stands are well organized.

I enjoy so much going to the market. Near the beginning of my time here, I would always go to the market with someone who could speak French. Recently, however, I have ventured to the market by myself. As I mentioned before, I speak little French and even less Arabic, so getting the foods I want, in the amount I want, and negotiating the price is a fun challenge Most vendors appreciate the effort I make to speak the little Arabic that I know, mixed with some French, and the slightest of English. Because I frequent the same vendors, I have begun to develop a relationship with them and they offer me the warmest greeting each time I visit. They are truly witnesses of my progress in learning the Arabic language as I often try out the new words I learn in class. I purchased a handmade basket from a woman at the market which I use to carry my food. Tunisians use this same type of basket for carrying their goods, so it is my way of attempting to “fit in” and shed my image as a tourist as much as possible.

Tunisian Cusine

On a similar note, as a cultural experience requirement for my program, all participants were assigned to one of four “cultural experience” groups. The groups include Tunisian cooking, calligraphy, Tunisian music, and Tunisian theatre. Luckily, I was assigned to the cooking group! Each Wednesday evening my group meets with a Tunisian woman to learn various Tunisian dishes and delicacies. Last week we made brik. Brik is a traditional Tunisian dish similar in popularity as pizza in American. Brik is made with mashed potatoes, parsley, cheese, capers, tuna, and an egg enclosed in an envelope of fried dough. A thin layer of dough is first folded into a square. The mashed potatoes, parsley, cheese, capers, and tuna are mixed together and then placed in the middle of the square of dough. An egg is cracked open, only the yolk is used, and then placed on top of the other mixture. The dough is then folded in half (now you have a triangle) and the brik is quickly placed into hot oil. The edges are pressed together and sealed. Everything inside the dough pocket is cooked from the outside in. Tunisians often cook brik so that the egg remains runny and the challenge is to bite into the brik without having the egg run all over you. The briks were delicious! I am looking forward to the other dishes we will learn how to make.

As a side note, Tunisians put tuna on just about EVERYTHING: Tuna and eggs, tuna sandwiches, tuna on pasta, tuna on pizza, tuna in calzones, tuna on salads, etc. Fortunately, I enjoy tuna! Some of my colleagues are not as fortunate! Also, Tunisians use a spicy, red paste called harrisa on almost everything. Whatever tuna can be put on, harrisa is also put on. Harrisa is also served as a spread with bread at restaurants. Before coming to Tunisia, I was aware that I liked spicy foods, but I never knew the tolerance I had for spicy foods. Many of my colleagues are unable to handle the heat from the harissa, but I don’t seem to be affected by it. In fact, when we have gone out to eat, I have often dipped my bread into the harrisa and said, “Oh, this harrisa is not hot,” however, when my colleagues try it, their mouths are on fire!

El Jem & Monastir

This past weekend our group visited El Jem and the city of Monastir. El Jem hosts the remains of an extraordinary Roman amphitheatre constructed in the second century AD. The remains of the amphitheatre are among the best preserved of their kind, even said to be finer than the Colosseum in Rome. The amphitheatre’s original capacity was estimated at around 30,000! The amphitheatre was used for gruesome theatrical performances whereby animals fought animals, gladiators (often slaves and/or convicts) fought animals, and / or gladiators fought other gladiators - often ‘til death.

It truly was an amazing experience to stand in the center of the amphitheatre! The complex is enormous in size and surprisingly well preserved. Under the amphitheatre are hallways and holding chambers where the gladiators and animals were held. We were told that the animals were hoisted up through an opening in the amphitheatre floor. It was fairly dark in the hallways and holding chambers, just light enough to barely see, and the air was heavy and stale. I definitely had chills running through my body as I walked around in this area. It was certainly eerie!

After lunch, our group piled back into the bus and, after a few other stops, settled in at an awesome beach resort in the town of Monastir. We were definitely spoiled! The rooms were beautiful and we had access to an indoor pool, outdoor pool, and beach. My roommate and I were blessed with a room that faced the ocean, complete with our own balcony. All of our meals were included, so we had a day to relax! Our language program is so intensive during the week that the day of rest was much needed and appreciated!

On our way back to Tunis on Sunday, we made a quick stop at Hammamet, probably the most touristy area in Tunisia. We were given an hour to explore the area, not very much time, but a few of us made our way through the market. The following is an experience I wrote about in my journal:

Few words were exchanged, and there was no need for many to be spoken. A merchant eagerly ushered me into his shop of rugs and sat me down beside an older woman sitting in front of a loom. She smiled at me. “Assalama,” I greeted the woman. “Assalama,” she responded, seemingly somewhat appreciative of the greeting in her language. The woman picked up a strand of yarn and wove it through a few strands on the loom. She tied a knot and trimmed the tails of the yarn. Again she repeated the motion. The woman then put a strand of yarn in my hand and held my hand as she gently guided me through the motions. Following a few guided trials, she let go of my hand and set me free to repeat on my own. The woman then cut a piece of yarn, and saying something I could not understand, she tied the strand of yarn around my wrist. Her voice was gentle, the skin on her face looked soft, her eyes were warm, welcoming, and respectful. Only a few moments had passed since first meeting this woman and, yet, in some way, I felt our souls connect. The merchant returned and as quickly as the experience began, it came to an end. The merchant encouraged me to buy a rug, I politely expressed I was not interested at the moment, and out of the door I left. I wanted nothing more than to linger in the moment, to sit side by side with the woman at the loom.